1 48 tiger meet decals for ceramics

decal tiger meet - All the models with nickchinlund.info - MODELKITS

I am looking for a few Tiger Meet kits of F or Fs in 1/48 or 1/72 scale. I have the RG Belgium F kit and the Hasegawa 1/48 fCJ. DIY Steps Sticker Removable Stair Sticker Home Decor Ceramic Tiles Patterns Chic-sale of low-price goods, 1 Roll of Sticker(Including 6 pcs Stickers). Kit: Italeri DB-7 Boston III; Scale: ; Extra's: Decals Aussie Decals .. from the engines still doing stuff like fairing in the nose glass etc and totally removing .

Gator Glue was used. Started adding some of the Eduard detailing inside the fuselage halves. Blanked off the remnants of the wing root in the rear gunners office, and also added plasitcard sheet at right angles below the photo etch to get the correct position and add to the 3D effect. As the gunners canopy will be open and this is a big hole then there will be a bit of extra work going on here. A little bit of the PE on the pilot's right console and what have we here?? Yes we are going to have a scratch built bomb bay.

Now in most case people have suggested that the nose halves are glued to the fuselage half before joining the fuselage halves or if they have not done that they have stated that they would do it this way the next time. It looks like just a slight sand will be required on one half. Not content with scratching a bomb bay I have also decided to open up the ventral gun position, so it is on with the masking tape and out with the drill.

A start has been made on building up the framework around the ventral gun 'tunnel'. The bomb bay has been built and fits snugly in place; just to add more detail as well as the front and rear bulkheads.

So, a bit more scratching, Adding the pigeon holes for the ammo boxes for the dorsal guns, half way through the same for the ventral gun, as well as the throttle quadrant The RAAF pilots often let the gunners have a fly of the planes on the way back from sorties I have also glued the Red Roo resin engine nacelle halves to the kit parts, a pretty decent fit unlike certain other resin that has been featured of late!!

I have used masking tape to make sure I do not loose any more detail than I need to. More of the same, and my first 'challange' with the Aftermarket stuff Applied a wash to the gunners station as well as some drybrushing and starting to pick out the detailing, also added a couple of control lines along the base of the floor - yet to be tightened up. Moving along to the cockpit, scratched the red switches on the bulkhead panels below the instrument panels.

The ten levers for the throttles, pitch, mixture, carbie heating and superchargers added to the two quadrants came out the PE set. Revised the shape of the console aft of the throttle quadrant, the kit and Eduard both have this square, photos show it rounded. I added details to the main gear bays are completely naked And now to my first 'issue' with the Aftermarket.

How these Verlinden Cyclones are meant to fit inside the cowlings is beyond me. The kit engines are nice snug fit inside bother the kit and the Red Roo cowling, so something is going to have to give In Verlinden's defence though these engines are not designed with this specific kit in mind Here we have some hydraulic lines added to the roof of the main gear wells.

Now the oil cooler inlets supplied with the kit are just holes into the nacelles, whereas on the real thing there is a split inlet arrangement with some supporting ribs Also inserted a mesh grill, not visible in photo.

The gaps between the runners and the skin have been filled and repainted.


Oil coolers themselves were made up from spare bits and added. Back into the cockpit the levers on the seat bulkhead were added for the engine cowl flaps, wing flaps and landing gear. Also added were the additional gun charging controls, these were on little mounts attached to the consoles with the regular gun charging controls - all 8 red switches made from scratch. So the fuselage halves are together now, just the usual clean up required for the seams, nothing untoward.

The bomb bay in situ - almost for got to put the wing spare in actually did forget so had to separate top joins and reglue A little tidying up around the lower rear gunner's hatch that was gut out - might have missed that if it were not for the photo. I did add the roof to the cabin so you do not see the join line of the fuselage halves. The upper and lower halves of the wings glues togetheralong with the tail surfaces after all trailing edges were thinned considerably.

Superglue beads have been run along the trailing edges where the little 'v's have appeared to aid in final sanding to an edge. Now we have the fuselage together time to move on to the wings and tail planes, tackle a couple of challenges on the way, and to get this thing looking like a Boston!! Dryfitting the wings to the fuselage showed no issues on the top surfaces, and underneath was fine on one side.


However the first challenge appeared as an interesting gap on the other side It turned out that lower wing was shorted than the upper wing But nothing a shim of 30 thou plastic rod could not solve. The engine nacelles fitted perfectly into the recesses underneath the wings, even the aftermarket resin ones But the same could not be said of the joints above the wings A small shim was added under each horizontal tailplane.

In order to get the 10 degree dihedral that was exhibited by the Boston's tailplanes The vertical tail surface went on with no fuss and so now we are stating to look like a Boston The nose is now on, with three large fishing weights Gator glued in place. Luckily I am not doing transparent nose jobbie so I did not have to worry about hiding the nose weight. A little filler and some green paint to sight how well the seams are going. Now, I mentioned before about the difference in diameter between the kit engines an the between the Verlinden aftermarket ones.

Kinetic Shenyang J-15 Flying Shark, Chinese Navy 1:48

Well it turns out the Verlinden ones re pretty much on the money scale size wise. The problem is the plastic - or resin - sidewalls of the cowlings are far from scale thickness!!!

So, a combination of thinning down the resin cowlings to well, almost paper thin in places and shaving off the outer edges of the cylinders achieved the desired result. Now it is time to start building the other engine, and this will be a complete engine that will be displayed with he cowling removed.

Front row of cylinders in place Nothing that a bath in acetone based nail polish remover could not solve to undo the superglue A base coat of Citadel Mithril Silver. A wash of Citadel Wash. The con rods picked out in Gunze H18 Steel,these are nice as they are molded with a gap to the cylinders, exquisite resin mouldings these are. And now the inlet manifolds in place.

Oh boy, now this one is starting to put up a bit of a fight. Time to work on the PE wiring harnesses for the engines. First cut out, then prime and apply Tamiya X Titanium Gold. Then lay on the engine and work into position before using superglue to attach. Uses for hobby, paper cutting and wood-working. Attractively Carded Z No. Burma Road Stilwell's Assault on Myitkyina Flintlock Musket Brown Bess and Charleville Includes newly tooled parts, photo-etch and Cartograf decals with various markings.

Completed kit measures approx. Boxed Gundam Gusion Includes lots of colored photos.

  • Tiger meet kits or decals
  • 1/35 scale vs 1/48

Includes figure and decals. Includes chrome-plated parts, V-8 engine and white wall tires. Includes detailed landing gear and Cartograf decals.

Includes workable tracks, movable wheels and 4 different markings. Retro Deluxe Edition Packaging. Includes chrome-plated parts, figure and decals. Boxed Lear Fan Turboprop Aircraft Includes decals and instructions. Blending structures into your layout and creating signs Softcover.

Great for model enthusiasts. Molded in white New Tool Molded in yellow New Tool Includes 2 figures and display base. Parts molded in white. Retro Deluxe Edition Packaging